Archive for the ‘Fuel Saving Tips’ Category

The kettle uses HOW much? Our energy saving project starts here

Thursday, March 5th, 2009

Some snippets of conversation from our house late yesterday evening:

“Look what happens when I switch on the kettle!”

“Right, I’m going to try turning off the lights in the kitchen!”

“Oh my god, did you see what just happened when the washing machine came on?”

I know – it’s sad but true. With less time and energy than is contained in one kilowatt-hour, we had transformed into electricity measurement geeks.

I’d just got bac from the launch of the Low Carbon Households project, which is being run by Lewes District Council. Fellow Living contibutor Jeremy and I will be monitoring our home electricity use for a year, as will more than 30 other households in the district.

An eco-eye out

eco-eye-300x199 The kettle uses HOW much? Our energy saving project starts hereWe’ve all been equipped with an eco-eye mini, a neat little device that reveals what’s going on behind the scenes.

The idea of monitoring energy use may not push everyone’s button, but when you get one of these bad boys clamped onto your supply you can’t help but get involved with it.

It’s very simple. You plug the sensor into the mains or insert a couple of batteries (they came supplied with proper ones, Duracell AAs – when does that ever happen?). Then you lock it on to one of the wires going into your fusebox – no cutting or rewiring required.

Next you put batteries in the separate monitor screen, and set the time and the cost per unit of electricity (according to your last bill). And that’s it. You’re recording real-time use of power in kilowatt-hours, and can see how much your current use would cost over a week, month or year – as well as the likely CO2 emissions.

Within seconds, you’re wondering why the level is so low, or so high, and why it’s changing all the time. It’s a bit of a jolt.

We’d been told at the meeting by Climate South East’s Matthew Bird that the kettle would be a shocker, and he was right. Making a cup of tea sent our low, mid-evening reading shooting up five-fold. You quickly realise why the National Grid struggles to cope with the surge in demand during half-time in cup finals.

bulb-tastic_cr The kettle uses HOW much? Our energy saving project starts here

And…?

So, this is all very well. But will it actually change the way we behave?

Well, the early signs are: yes. Our kettle doesn’t have a water gauge, so it’s easy to overfill. I did exactly that this morning, and felt so unable to waste the hot water that I made a full cafetiere (which could be reheated later, for rather less power, in the microwave) and a Thermos flask of tea for my train journey later in the day.

I’ve eased off the monitor-watching a bit this evening, but it’s sat there, watching, waiting, and ready to reveal the true energy impact the next time we hoover, or dry the kids’ hair or leave the TV on standby.

And as they say, knowledge is power.

Anyone else out there got an eco-eye mini or similar smart meter plugged in to their home? Let us know your experiences of whether it’s helping you to save energy.

IMAGES by me

How To Squeeze Every Penny Out Of Your Car

Thursday, March 5th, 2009

pennies
By Eric Peters, Automotive Columnist

People who lived through the original Great Depression learned how to squeeze every last drop of value out of every penny they had — and never wasted anything.

It looks like this generation is going to have to relearn those lessons… double-time quick.

The best way to save money, of course, is to avoid having to spend it in the first place. Here are a few ideas that might be helpful:

Extend Your Battery Life

Batteries are expensive — good ones can cost more than 0 — so the longer yours lasts, the better it is for your bottom line.

One way to extend the useful life of your car’s battery is to keep it at full charge by avoiding such practices as running accessories (radio, headlights, interior lights, etc.) for extended periods with the engine off. When the engine is off, so is the car’s alternator — which produces the electricity that normally operates the car’s electrical systems as well as keeps the battery fully charged. When the engine is off, you are running on the battery exclusively — which drains away charge.

When you restart the engine, the alternator will restore full charge to the battery; however, excessive discharging (and recharging) of the battery is bad for its long term ability to hold a full charge. This is why you should only use the battery to start the car — not run the accessories for long periods of time.

If the car is not used regularly, consider buying an automatic “trickle charger.” Even though the car is off, there is a gradual draw of current that, over time, can weaken the battery and reduce its longevity. A trickle charger is a simple device that you connect to the battery’s positive and negative terminals and plug into a household outlet. That’s it. The device turns on and off automatically, as needed, to maintain the battery at full charge. Automatic models are completely safe and cannot overcharge your battery. But they can save you money in the form of longer-lived batteries.

Take Care Of Your Tires

Flats are much less commonplace than they once were, in part because modern tire construction methods and materials are much improved over the way tires were made in the past. However, the downside is that people often take tires for granted — and don’t regularly check tire pressure. Everyone has read how this hurts gas mileage — which is absolutely true. But under-inflated tires also wear out more rapidly — which can affect your vehicle’s safety as well as cost you money in the form of more frequent tire replacement.

Under-inflated tires may actually be more commonplace today than in the past because of the widespread use of aluminum alloy wheels. Reason? Alloy wheels often have air bubbles and other imperfections imparted during the casting process (vs. stamped steel wheels). Internal — and microscopic — corrosion can also result in tiny porosities that let air slip out as you drive. The leaks are typically very minor, but over a period of weeks or months, the losses can be significant. And it won’t be noticeable to the eye until the pressure has dropped to dangerously low levels.

New (2009 and up) model years cars have built-in electronic tire pressure monitors, but most older cars do not and require the old-fashioned manual check with a gauge — ideally at least once every two weeks.

Keep An Eye On Your Gas Tank

Keep it full, or as close to full, as possible at all times. There are several money-saving benefits to be had. First, you can save a few bucks on the fuel itself. If the tank is kept full, or near full, you won’t find yourself running on fumes and forced to fill up at the first-available (and probably most expensive) station you find. Second, you can save money by reducing your vulnerability to the random upticks in price we’ve been seeing lately. If you find a good deal, tank up — and you’ve got more time to find the next good deal.

But the real money savings from keeping a full, or near full, tank comes in the form of cutting back the odds you’ll need expensive fuel system service in the years ahead. Why? A partially empty fuel tank is more prone to internal condensation (water) build-up as the outside temperature goes up and down. Tanks and fuel lines are made of steel — and steel exposed to water eventually begins to rust. The rust particles flake off and can clog fuel filters, fuel lines and fuel injectors — leading to big bucks repairs.

Eventually, rust can eat holes in the tank (and lines), too. Replacing these parts is neither easy nor inexpensive. A full gas tank will help avoid these problems.

Be Smart About The Clutch

Just like brakes, clutch wear occurs during the course of normal operation — mainly through friction. When the clutch is out and you’re driving along, there is virtually no wear on the clutch disc. The majority of the wear happens when you’re just starting out — and when you’re shifting gears. This is when the clutch is partially (or fully) disengaged. Material is being worn away through friction. Reduce the friction — and you decrease wear and increase longevity. Since replacing a clutch can cost as much as ,000 or more, the longer you can go between clutch jobs, the better.

Avoid stop and go-type driving, for openers. In fact, if the majority of the driving you do consists of stop and go driving (which forces you to constantly engage and disengage the clutch) you might be better off buying a car with an automatic transmission. The difference in fuel economy is minimal (today’s modern automatics are very efficient; the difference in fuel economy between automatic and stickshift versions of the same car is usually no more than 1-3 MPGs) but more importantly, the slight fuel savings isn’t worth much if its wiped away by an 0-,000 clutch job.

Next best, try to tailor your driving to minimize stop and starts — as well as gear changes. Try to maintain your vehicle’s momentum in traffic. It is much easier on the clutch to “roll out” in second than to start out from a dead stop in first. When you change gears, do it smoothly and quickly (but not abruptly). Avoid “riding” the clutch — which is just like riding the brakes and has the same effect.

Lastly, don’t allow drivers who aren’t fully competent with a stickshift near the driver’s seat of your car. The best car for them to learn on is someone else’s car.

Comments?
www.ericpetersautos.com (click on “Forum”).

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How To Squeeze Every Penny Out Of Your Car

Further Reading:

Fuel Economy Tips for Drivers of Petrol Automatics

Wednesday, December 10th, 2008

classic-american-car-dashboard

Fuel Economy Tips for Drivers of Petrol Automatics

If you currently own this type of car, and you can’t live without an autobox, I would strongly recommend switching to a diesel automatic as soon as you can. In the past, I have found to my own cost, that with a conventional petrol automatic the odds are stacked against you from the outset. The last petrol automatic I owned, was a Mercedes 190E 2.0 petrol with autobox, it was a petrol guzzler! The official figures stated that it was supposed to return 30mpg, but it was barely giving 25mpg when I first got it. With a thorough service, a few tweaks and a light foot, I could get 32mpg without additives, and a little more on a long run. The bottom line is that economy will ALWAYS be poor with that setup, mainly because with an autobox you don’t normally have the ability to induce engine braking on demand. Those of you old folks who are familiar with automatics, will know that when you take your foot off the go pedal, the revs have a tendency to drop dramatically, stepping on/off throttle is more like push/coast, the big problem is that you’re using petrol ALL of the time! The only option you are left with is a superlight right foot! To summarise this type of car, I am just going to say that it is damn near impossible to escape the following equation: Petrol + Automatic = Piss Poor Economy. If you are stuck with this setup, don’t worry, there are plenty more tips on this site, to help slow the descent of your fuel gauge.

Petrol Car Tips

Wednesday, December 10th, 2008

Gear Cogs

Tips for Manual Petrol Car Drivers

This is the most common car type on UK roads today, although diesel cars with a manual gearbox will probably take the lead in the near future, still with me? It’s worth mentioning that in this type of car, with the exception of steep hills, you should never need to go over 3000rpm. Tearing up the gears, then cruising in 5th gear, is NOT driving for economy! I have tested all the fuel economy myths, the old method of the lowest revs in the highest gear, works quite well, (eg: 1500rpm in 5th gear) but there are other factors that you must be aware of. A method I like to employ, is what I call the Imaginary Rev Limit, where for instance on a flat road, starting from a standstill, you imagine that you can’t exceed 2000rpm but there is a rule you must apply to this method, and it is just simply, never let the engine struggle. If you are sitting at 1500rpm in 5th gear, and the car is chugging, or vibrating badly, then you have two options. Option 1: Increase your speed in 5th gear, until the car runs smoothly again. Option 2: Drop down to 4th gear to lessen the strain on the engine. Whatever option you choose, the engine would no longer be stressed. Option 1, would yield the highest fuel economy on a flat road, or a slight uphill stretch. This method does not take the engine ‘Sweet Spot’ into account, but it will serve you well if you can’t find the sweet spot. There was a time in the past when even I believed the sweet spot was a myth, but it is there, you will find it somewhere between 40-60mph in 5th gear (or 6th if you have a 6 speed box), in difficulty to find it’s similar to the G-Spot in women! If you have a mpg computer in your car, which gives an accurate reading in real time (a lot of them don’t), you should be able to see it, by varying your speed while cruising in your highest available gear. If you have a spare £100, you could buy a scangauge, you can find them on the internet, just google the name, it plugs into the OBD Socket found under the dash in most cars. It is much more than an mpg meter, and is extremely accurate, but probably only justifiable for a serious fuel economy nut like me. To sum up the sweet spot, I think it is accurate to say that it is a product of the torque characteristics of your engine, and is usually found at the peak point in the rev range where torque delivery is at its strongest, which is why it varies from car to car. Read the article ‘Driving Style’ for a snippet of knowledge on how to keep your engine running without using any fuel. What did he just say? Alright it was a little play on words, but the point I would like to get across, is that there are times when your car is using no fuel at all, and you can exploit that knowledge if you know when it’s happening.

Diesel Car Tips

Wednesday, December 10th, 2008

Gear Cogs

Tips for Diesel Car Drivers

This type of car is by far the smartest choice for everyday motoring, and as the majority of diesel cars have a Fuel Cut Off valve, which cuts off the fuel supply when you take your foot off the pedal. In the grand scheme of things, it does a similar job to the EFI setup in a petrol car. Although the Fuel Cut off Valve in a diesel, is entirely different to the EFI setup in a petrol car, they both cut off the fuel supply when you let off the throttle, so the same driving style applies. For this reason I recommend all the same tips described for a petrol manual car. The bonus with a diesel engined car, is a lot more engine torque/pulling power, this enables you to change gear earlier, and cruise at much lower revs. Diesels engines are also much more efficient at tickover, than petrol engines, and as far as driving techniques are concerned, I’ve more or less covered it in the Petrol/manual section.